First ascents and climbing school days

The past few weeks have been exciting and busy, I have been hitting up the local areas at least 2-3 times a week in an effort to get fitter and stronger for a couple of projects that I have been cleaning up ready for a first ascent. I also have done a couple of climbing school days at the local cliffs, taking newbies for their first climbing/ rappelling experiences.

Giorgina learning to belay

Misael, learning quick on a hard section

working out the moves on the slab

Giorginas 3rd route on the tough overhang

One of my projects that I had in mind was to lead a previously top rope only route at Gazilazo crag on the edge of Sucre. This route goes at F6a+ and has two bolts at the top that are there for top roping but none on the face, because of this I believe this is the first time that this route has been led (also because no one else out here has trad gear)

What makes this rout and interesting project is the mind games, its not particularly hard but it is quite bold, after a couple of pieces of gear at 6/7 meters behind a couple of hollow flakes, you are required to climb another 10-12m with nothing, doing 5.7 moves with nasty groundfall potential

After this section you get a couple of good pieces and then have to run it out to the crux overhang, where a couple of micro stoppers protect the move over the overhang to the finish.

This was on of those days when everything came together, the mental prep I had done by soloing easy routes was perfect for keeping me calm and I felt like I floated up in perfect control though the bold sections and through the crux overhang. Its been a while since I have done any bold trad, concentrating more on difficulty recently so it cool to know that I have still got the head (and kiwis... hence the route name) for it

As I believe its the first proper ascent I have names the route "dede a tener los Kiwis" (got to have the Kiwis) which I though quite appropriate. Grade is E2/3 5b or 5.10b R


So I am in pretty good shape and have ticked off a couple of things, I cleaned up a line on Sica Sica thats brand new also so we will see when I get that done.

Heading Up to the big mountains next week for some guiding and big mountaineering action so watch this space for updates.

I will also have my website offering climbing and mountain guiding in Bolivia going Live soon, More updates about that to come....

clime hard and have fun people.